On a Friday night in December, the line outside a roadside nyama choma joint near Naivasha can rival the check-in queues at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
SUVs and matatus sit side by side. Diaspora returnees, Nairobi weekenders and foreign visitors work through plates of grilled meat, ugali and kachumbari under the glow of floodlights and football on TV.
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